Total length (curvature between two ends) 62″
Siyahs span 55″
Strung length 54¾”
Maximum draw length 33″
Csaba Grozer the bowyer master:
There is black buffalo horn on the inner side. The middle layer was made of wood. The outer layer is rawhide. Made of natural materials. The outer plate under the leather cover is made of sinew and natural glue. The base of the bow is wood. The inner layer of the limbs is made of water buffalo horn. The rigid tips and the handle are strengthened with bone and horn. Hemp bandage. It has got the shape of letter ‘C’ therefore it is hard to string.
This bow is the exact copy of the original made with the same method as a thousand years ago and consists of only natural components. The core of the bow is joined together of assorted kinds of wood. The inside ( that is on the archer’s side) is made of horn plating. The outside is made of tendon strings and fish bladder-glue layered and shrunk onto the bow. These layers are sensitive to moisture, so it is covered with bi birch-bark. The handle and tips are stiffened with horn and strengthened at the joinings with tying. The horn plating is made of water buffalo horn.
Grozer bows have the best quality of our products. The Grozer Mongolian is a HIGH-range in price from our â€žGrÃ³zerâ€ series. The design comes from the 10th century and based on archeological grave-findings. They have a very special design (see pictures), and when the string is not on the bow they form a real â€žCâ€, which will be bent in the other direction, and this provides quite dynamic attributes for theese bows
‘C’- shape or bent forward arms
Briefly speaking I can say that with relatively soft materials like horn and sinew, the C-shape works better, but with stiffer materials such as the fiberglass, carbon, the bent forward arms are much better in case of a traditional recurve bow. There were bent forward arms bows among the old horn bows as well, where the handle angle was quite big, for example in the Avar, Hunnish types.
Csaba Grozer Users instructions
When stringing the bow, the lower end of it mustn’t touch the ground and the upper end must be held and pressed under the bezel. The middle of the hilt should lean up on the inside part of the thigh, while the lower end of the bow above the bezel should lean up on the outside of your lower leg.
Before using set the string in the middle of the siyahs.
In the course of using the bow keep that part upwards where you can see the name GrÃ³zer.
The C-shaped and composite bows should be strung crouching, the bow pressed to the knees.
Before using set the string in the middle of the siyahs. If the siyahs twisted during the stringing of the bow, they have to be set to the middle as well by twisting it to the opposite direction.
If the C-shaped bows are strung improperly its assymetry can be too much, so it should be twisted to the other direction to get the appropriate assymetry of the limbs. (especially with the TRH and composite bows)
NEVER shoot an arrow straight up into the air. Don’t draw back and release the string without any arrows.
NEVER lean on the bow when drawn. After use, take the string off. After exteneded use the string may get thready and need waxing.
When waxing, pull the wax onto the string with fast motions.
NEVER leave a drawn bow in direct hot sun or in a car that’s in a hot sun.
If the bow gets very hot (e.g. having been carried in a car in summer) always wait until it cools down before stringing.
NEVER draw the bow over the maximum draw length given above.